The 1990’s marked a major shift in the world of fashion photography and brought with it a new sense of realism and spontaneity. As part of the new series “British influence”, Steidldangin presents the monograph of Glen Luchford, whose artistic production came to maturity in the period.

Luchford’s earliest photographs prefigure the gritty, found-light aesthetic that defined the first half of the 90s. They range from quiet black-and-white portraits of musical icons such as Ian Brown and Björk to more aggressive street shots of Kate Moss that capture the spirit of a seedy New York on the verge of extinction. But as previously stark contrasts between artistic and commercial work softened, Luchford’s from-the-hip naturalism gave way to a style with Hitchcockian precision. His film noir sensibilities and use of narrative confounded expectations for fashion photography at the time, and the cinematic images he created for Prada have become more than symbols of the merging visual languages of fashion and art photography—they have become works of art in their own right.

Throughout his career, Luchford has drawn on a range of media, from 35 mm black and white to 8x10 to digital formats. This luxurious monograph brings together images from all modes of production and features an interview with Luchford’s long-time friend and artistic collaborator, Jenny Saville.